Cleaning and maintaining the Ruger LCR revolver is simple and easy.
Required Tools and Equipment
- Cleaner of Choice. I use Hoppes #9
- Lube Of Choice. I use SLP 2000 EWL
- Bore Brush, Rod, and Cleaning Patches
- Tooth Brush
- Flat Head Screw Driver
- 1/8″ or Smaller Punch and Hammer. I use a 1/16″
- Torque Wrench that reads inch lbs. I use the Wheeler Engineering F.A.T. Wrench
- T10 Torx Bit
- Canned Air
- Caliber Specific Snap Caps
Cleaning and Lubrication
- Unload the revolver
- Remove the grip screw and remove the grip
- Using the canned air, I spray out the fire control housing and the trigger area to make sure all dust and debris are removed
- Using the toothbrush soaked in Hoppes #9 I scrub the forcing cone area to remove all build up . I also take this time to inspect the forcing cone area for any abnormalities.
- I also scrub the area under the ejector and the firing pin area to remove all debris and build up. I take this time to inspect the rest of the weapon for abnormalities. Paying special attention to the frame, ejector star, firing pin area, and cylinder stop.
- I then perform a basic bore and chamber cleaning by soaking the bore brush with Hoppes #9 and scrubbing the bore and all five chambers per the user manual.
- I then run cleaning patches through them until they are clean.
- I also ensure that the ejector is clean.
- I then wipe down the entire revolver to ensure it is clean and dry and I prepare to apply lubricant.
- I apply lubricant to two spots only. I put a small drop on the the ejector where it contacts the cylinder. I then work the ejector to get it to spread out and work in. Then I place a small drop on the crane pivot and clean off any excess. I apply all lubricant sparingly.
- The final step is that I wipe off any excess lube, wipe down the entire revolver, and then use the canned air again to ensure the firing pin channel is clean and dry.
There are also a couple more things you should know outside of basic cleaning:
Hammer Pivot Pin Lubrication
Ruger recommends that you lube the hammer pivot pin every 1000 rounds of live and or dry firing. This procedure is outlined on page 19 and 20 of the owners manual. You can download it here:
After you have unloaded the revolver, and removed the grip you will require a 1/8″ or smaller punch and a small hammer.
Simply open the cylinder then tap the pin out just a bit taking care not to push it too far out.
Once the pin is partially out ( about .10″ per the user manual) I put one drop of lube in the pin hole and then flip it over and put one drop of lube on the pin itself.
You can turn the pin back and forth to get the lube to work into the revolver.
After you have pushed the pin back in, Ruger recommends that you dry fire it 5-10 times to work the lubrication into the action.
I use the snap caps for this procedure.
Crane Pivot Screw and Fire Control Housing Retaining Screw Torque Check
Ruger also recommends this to be preformed every 1000 trigger pulls dry or live.
I would like to note that I have done this after every cleaning and the Crane Pivot Screw has been good to go every time, but the Fire Control Housing Retaining Screw has been below torque requirements more than a couple of times, so it is good to check this after every cleaning because it takes so little time.
For this procedure you will require a torque wrench that reads inch lbs and a T10 Torx bit. I use a Wheeler F.A.T. wrench that can be purchased for about $50.00 and reads from 10-65 inch lbs. the T10 bit has to be purchased separately.
The Fire Control Housing Screw torque settings are 6-9 in lbs. I set the wrench to 10 in lbs on the wrench and check it.
The Crane Pivot Screw torque settings are 23-27 in lbs. So I set the wrench to 25 in lbs and check it as well.
Once everything is properly torqued, I simply re-install the grip and I am ready to go. Cleaning and maintaining my Ruger LCR takes less me than ten minutes.